2004 Stubai Alps Ski Tour - Part 1

Jim Frankenfield; snowman@csac.org; 1-877-604-0166

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This is another view from Schwarzenbergjoch towards the other side. The mountain is Schrankogl (3496m), another major mountain (the second highest in the Stubai, Zuckerhutl is 3505m) and landmark in the range. It stood out and was clearly distinguishable even from the other side of the range on the second part of the tour. It's a beautiful and massive peak which stands largely by itself.

This is also listed as a possible ascent during this tour, but after deciding not to do Ruderhofspitz I knew it wouldn't make any more sense to attempt this one. Steep rocky slopes with pockets of snow, such those all over Shrankogl, were beginning to slide from the heat of the sun by now. The ridge facing the camera is apparently the common route, but at this time of year I found many of these ridge lines were in an in-between condition of having only spotty snowcover (which is thin in places or icy in spots between the rocks). One can't count on climbing entirely on consolidated snow, nor on being on solid rocks. To try peaks like this at all in June it seems best to make a particular climb the goal and to arrange timing and perhaps bivouacs accordingly. Fitting it into a ski tour as you go seems to me to be unrealistic, or at least quite difficult with more dangers.

The summit was first climbed in 1865, the same summer that Whymper and party climbed the Matterhorn. Most attention at the time was on 4000m peaks and this was one of the few mountains in the Eastern Alps that anyone bothered to take much note of. Success came to Tuckett and Brown with the assistance of their guides Biner and Michels.

Schrankogl from Schwarzenbergjoch

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