Current Events, Photos, News, etc

Photo Gallery

Organized Trips

 Select Climbs and Trips

These are some of the climbs I've done. There are many more, of course, but these are the only ones I've had time to write up and post reports on. These are older trips, predating the modern era of easy internet use, which I took the time to put reports together on:

• In June of 1997, while in France, I climbed the Mallory Couloir on the Aiguille du Midi (Mt Blanc massif) with Bill Dean.
• In August of 1996 I went into the Wind River Range of Wyoming on a trip organized by Kyle Williams. Kyle and I climbed the Mt Helen Ice Couloir (with another climber, Brooke) and the NW Arete of Ellingwood Peak.
• In August of 1995 I soloed the NW Arete of Mt Sir Donald, which is by Rogers Pass in the Selkirk range of British Colombia.
• In March of 1994 I climbed Polar Circus (IV, WI-5) and the Weeping Wall (III, WI-4) in the Canadian Rockies. Slides and a report is available from my partners web site - Tuan's Mountaineering Page. On Polar Circus we had a large avalanche from a gully above go by. Tuan was securely anchored to bolts at the top of the route and was hit by the snow. I was on steep ice below and watched it go overhead.
• In March of 1993 I soloed the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn, in the Wasatch Mountains of Utah.

The trips below are from more recent years than those above and have been copied over from the "Realtime" photos at the end of the year. Aside from the few trips moved here in their entirety I select a few photos from most trips and combine them on a page for the year.

• Stubai Alps Part 2, Tirol Austria - June 13-17, 2004
• Stubai Alps Part 1, Tirol Austria - June 8-11, 2004
• Various Climbs in Rogers Pass - August, 2003
• Mt Tupper in Rogers Pass, BC - August 7, 2001
• Clemenceau Icefields, BC - August, 2000

I have often organizing a spring ski and a summer climbing trip, and each trip has it's own full set of pages with reports and photos. Winter trips have included Fairy Meadows and Great Cairn, summer trips have included Great Cairn and the Battle Range. Information on all these trips is available from the Organized Trips page.

My webpages are always under development, although often slowly due to too many other things to do. The Realtime section of the Photo Gallery is updated most often, and there are often two Organized Trips a year with photos and reports eventually being posted afterwards.

 Guiding and Instruction

"What would a guide be without someone to lead? Good weather, bad weather, easy, difficult, I need to sing the same tune as he. That was the gift of our mountains. Climbing to the summit, one man does his job, another is on vacation and the luxury of their efforts is friendship."

- Gaston Rebuffat

I have a separate guiding website with information on various trips and classes including mountaineering and avalanche classes, climbs, desert trips, backpacking trips, longer camping tours, and more. I have arranged classes and/or climbs in Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, and Washington. Other locations are possible as well. A sampling of the feedback I have received is also there, and info/links of professional interest.

 Educational and Instructional Info on the Web

Learn all about avalanches and follow the stability of the snowpack in many regions via the Cyberspace Snow and Avalanche Center.

I have some Mountain Safety Notes under my guiding pages.

Knots on the Web has links to all kinds of things - knot tying, mathematical knot theory, and knot art. Ropers Knots Page includes an index to knots on the web - if you want to look up a certain knot this extensive index is the place to go. And if you really into heavy duty applications, you might be interested in the Rigging page on Corvallis Mountain Rescue Units web site. (It's a good site - check it out!) Now there is also an animated site showing how to tie various knots.

For altitude medical issues, the Himalayan Rescue Association has some good information on their website. The High Altitude Medical Guide is an excellent resources and includes information which is oriented towards physicians. More good basic general information and advice can be found on the Guide to High Altitude page maintained by Princeton's Outdoor Action program.

The "Mountain Medicine" pages have good information on a variety of topics, including AMS and the use of Diamox. The information is made available by the UIAA Mountain Medicine Centre.

Petzl has some very useful information available on many topics, mostly related to ropework and rigging. For an extensive collection of information on vertical ropework devices (ascending and rapelling) see the Vertical Devices Page by Dr Gary Storrick.

 Other Climbing-Related Items

Climbing Humor Archive

Morbid Eiger History (saved from rec.climbing re: historic deaths on the Eiger)

A news story in which I was featured appeared in the Eugene, OR Register-Guard

As of August 1998, a photo taken by Tuan on our ascent of The Weeping Wall is being used by Soundprint on the web to promote the audio tape Beyond the Climb.

Quang-Tuan Luong (Tuan), with whom I climbed the Weeping Wall and Polar Circus, participated in the fourth ascent of "Sea of Vapor", a WI 7 route in the Canadian Rockies. His report and a more general report by Wayne Trzyna are available on Tuan's "Cold Mountain" page.

Here are some of my favorite quotes about or related to climbing and a really nice poem which I picked up from one of the newsgroups a long time ago. And a Skiers Prayer by a priest in Verbier, France.

Some interesting historical stuff on the Vaux Family and the "Canadian Alps".

 Some Climbing-Related Links:

• Associations and Clubs which I am a member of
  • American Mountain Guides Association
  • American Avalanche Association
  • The Alpine Club of Canada
  • The American Alpine Club
  • International Association of Hydrological Sciences
• Pages with Noteworthy Photos and/or Graphics
  • "In Light of Nature" Backcountry Ski Page (Pat Bates)
  • Quang-Tuan Luong (Terra Galleria) - Mountain Photography
  • Jim Dockery's Mountain Photos Page
  • James Kay Photography - Adventure Sports
• Expeditions, related websites:
  • Nanga Parbat, 1997 (Russia)
  • OSU Denali, 2000
• Other Links