The Great Cairn Hut


Great Cairn Mountaineering Trip

July 24-31, 1999

Climbing Possibilities

Climbing Possibilities

In terms of climbing there is something for everyone in this area. Rock, snow, and ice with difficulties ranging from scrambles to long and challenging aid climbs.

There are numerous shorter routes with exposed scrambling (4th and easy 5th class) close to the hut, with a climbing time of about 4 hrs. Most of these still require some glacier travel, although a couple do not.

There are moderate snow and ice routes on Mt Sir Sanford, Silvertip, Citadel, Cornice Peak, The Footstool, and others. The rock in the immediate area is mostly poor but there may be potential for new routes on the NW of Ravelin Peak.

The Adamants to the NW have excellent Granite. The Blackfriars and Belvedere are best accessed from Great Cairn. Exceptional rock routes are found on the south side of the Stickle, Turret, and Austerity - these often involve a bivouac.

The Adamant rock routes cover a wide range of difficulty. Many are in the 5.4-5.7 range and are reasonable one day climbs. There are some which are upwards of 5.7 - up to 5.11. Quite a few of these also require aid climbing and a bivouac is likely on many of them.

There is an undeveloped crag below the snout of Silvertip Glacier. Some limited but exceptional bouldering can be found here as well.

The maps are 82N/12 (Mt Sir Sandford) and, for the trip out, 82N/13 (Sullivan River). Perhaps 82M/9 (Goldstream River) as well. The hut is at 392268 on 82N/12.

The climbing guide is "The Columbia Mountains of Canada - Central" by Fox, Laurilla, Putnam, and Whipple. Published by the American Alpine Club.

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