Battle Range Mountaineering

July 27 - August 4, 2001

Activities and Skills

One common concern people seem to have is whether they have the skills to go on such a trip as this. There is something for everyone in this area, and all are welcome. The bigger question is whether your skills are compatible with your goals and expectations.

Easy Scrambles

For those who are not interested in technical climbs and steep terrain there are plenty of easy scrambles, just don't expect maintained trails. From a camp at the head of Houston Creek it is possible to hike over Schooner Pass to Butters Camp, or through Houston Pass and Oasis Pass to Oasis lake. Neither route involves glacier travel, and either could be turned into an overnight backpack out of our base camp.

The western wing of the range, accessed through Houston Pass, has a number of peaks which are easy (class 3) scrambles. This remote area is not visited often so there is plenty of opportunity for solitude and exploration.

Class 4 Scrambling

For those who are comfortable scrambling on exposed terrain with good footing and holds there are numerous routes of this nature. Again there is often no glacier travel involved.

Alpine Climbing

Those with the interest and skill for alpine climbing will find lots of it. Especially on the Moby Dick massif. Most of the more significant alpine climbing does involve glacier travel at least on the approach. Some of this may be relatively low hazard, some is not. Routes up to at least 5.8 with aid have been established, but most routes are in the class 4 through 5.4 range.

First Ascents

It is possible to find new ascents. In the summer of 1999 the Alpine Club of Canada had their General Mountaineering Camps in the area and at least two new routes were established. It is doubtful that either is particularly difficult, both sound like moderate to steep snow. This area is still remote enough to offer the possibility of new routes that are not overly difficult.

BACK Climbing page [Main Battle Range Trip Page] Guiding page BACK